My scooter won't charge?

• Check the charger to insure a good connection with the scooter. Most chargers have screw on connections to ensure a good connection.
• Check the charger it's self. Using a volt meter check the voltage coming from the charger it should read between (12 V and 14V on 12 Volt Chargers) (24V and 28V on 24 Volt Chargers) and (36V and 38V on 36 Volt Chargers). If the chargers isn't producing these ranges of voltage, you probably need a new charger.
• Check the fuse on your scooter. Some scooters have and internal fuse that protects your controller from electrical shock.
• Finally check the connections inside the scooter. This may require you to remove the scooter body cover to perform this type of inspection.

• It is possible to have a bad brake lever. On most scooters the brake lever acts as a On/Off switch for the motor. Test this by turning the scooter on and squeeze the break leaver. If the tail light comes on the switch is working. However if the tail light comes on and stays on the break lever switch has failed, you probably need a new brake lever.
• It is also possible to have a bad throttle cable. On most scooters the throttle cable is an electronic switch when turned sends a signal to the controller to make the scooter go. When this switch is broken it acts as an open circuit not allowing the scooter to go.

• In this situation it is almost always a bad ignition. If you open the panel under the ignition switch and connect the 2 - wires coming from below the ignition to each other this will bypass the switch. If the scooter then works you know that you have a bad ignition switch or a bad connection to the ignition switch.

• Check the rear clutch. If the chain turns, but the scooters does not go forward then it is a problem with the rear clutch and it needs to be replaced. This is a brass color ring that attaches directly to the side of the read sprocket
• Check the throttle. If you rotate the throttle the lights on the speed display should gradually light up. If they do not light up then there is a problem with the throttle or the connection of the throttle to the controller.
• Check the engine. To check the engine, plug the engine directly to the battery. If the engine does not turn then your problem is the engine.
• Finally check the connections inside the scooter. This may require you to remove the scooter body cover to perform this type of inspection. Check all connections coming and going from the controller. It is possible that the controller box (aka "the scooters brain") has failed or may have a bad connection.

• Check the motor. This is the most common reason for a scooter to go slowly. The scooter may go fast when you lift the back wheel off the ground, but very slow when someone is riding on it. Sometimes you will smell the engine burning or you will hear it making a clicking noise.
• Check the battery. It may be that one of the batteries needs to be recharged or replaced. Using a volt meter check the output voltage of the batteries. It should be between (10V and 12V on 12 Volt systems) (18V and 24V on 24 Volt systems) and (32V and 36V on 36 Volt systems).
• Check the brakes. The scooter may need to have the brakes adjusted. If the scooter is hard to push then you know the scooter is braking. To correct this problem loosen the nut, near the rear wheel, on the break wire. Then flex the brake handle. Adjust the brake and tighten the nut back again.
• Check the rear chain and sprocket. If the rear chain sprocket and the sprocket on the end of the motor are not properly lined up this will cause a binding situation and possible slow your scooter down.
• Check the bearings. Spin the wheels on the front and rear of the scooter. If a bearing is worn the wheel will not spin freely. To check the bearings on the back tire you will need to disconnect the chain.
• Check the tires. Finally check to see if the tires are properly inflated.

• Check the brake cable. On the rear wheel loosen the brake assembly nut, flex the brake handle on the left handle bar to loosen the brake wire. To tighten the brakes more easily, use a pair of pliers to pull the wire out further from the nut and then tighten the nut to hold the wire in place.
• Check the brake assembly. If you've tightened the brake cable and the brakes still don't work. Then you may need a new rear brake assembly.
• Another possible problem is that the threads are stripped where the brake drum screws onto the wheel. In this case you will need a new rear rim.

• Check the motor. This is the most common reason for a grinding noise. Take the chain off the motor to see if the noise is coming from the motor.
• Check the rear chain and sprocket. If the rear chain sprocket and the sprocket on the end of the motor are not properly lined up this will cause a binding situation and may be producing the grinding noises you are hearing.

• This is probably and broken inner tube and needs to be replaced.

Tire will not stay inflated?

• Check the valve stem. Make sure the needle on the stem is tight.

Tire comes off rim?

• This is a problem with the bead of the tire not seating against the rim as you inflate the tire. You will need to replace the tire.

• Make sure the seat post / front post clamp is all the way at the bottom of the post. If not move it to the bottom of the post and retighten.
• If the L-shaped screw can be tightened and tightened but does not appear to be getting tighter, you may have stripped the bolt. In this case you can just replace the seat post / front post clamp.